By Harold Payson
Simply equipped boats for amateurs. contains 3 stitch-and-glue designs-a procedure that permits the plywood seams to be "taped" including fiberglass and resin rather than steel fastenings-and 3 traditional designs outfitted and not using a jig.
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Extra info for Build the New Instant Boats
I omitted this step in the first Tackand-Tape boat I built and noticed that the plywood edge grain sucked the resin out of my glass putty mixture, which in turn stiffened the mixture prematurely when I applied it, causing it to drag instead of spreading smoothly along the seam. So wait until the resin-coated seams are tacky, and then fill them with glass putty. Mix the hardener into Building Gypsy Full Size 45 With the bilge panel in place, relieve tight spots around its edges with a handsaw. Note that the bilge panel seam on the opposite side of the boat has already been filled.
Sheet 3, which shows Gypsy's sail plan, also shows her transom dimensions. Draw it full size on the plywood according to the scheme shown on Sheet 2, and cut it out square edged, then cut the bevels. I'd go the same route with the transom framing pieces-cut them square edged, 2 inches wide or a little wider to start with in order to finish them to 1~ inches when beveled. ) Then install the beveled framing pieces on the beveled transom. Do not try nailing a square-cut framing piece to a square-cut transom with the idea of beveling them Bevel transom framing or the framing pieces on the frame molds separately, before fastening them to the plywood, as at left.
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