Anatomy of a Doll: The Fabric Sculptor's Handbook by Susanna Oroyan

By Susanna Oroyan

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One can use the Tamiya offerings, as these are standard blackout lights found on most military vehicles throughout the war. Or, one can hollow out the lights and add aftermarket lenses. Tank crews would turn the lights around so that they would be facing the hull, which would have helped prevent them from being damaged in battle and, more importantly, stop any reflection that would give away the tank’s position to the enemy. Wiring for the lights is not necessary, as the wires run through the light mounting brackets.

CM) The exhaust pipes were painted in various dark-coloured Humbrol paints with artist’s pastel chalks mixed in to give a textured finish. To depict asbestos tape, these were then wrapped in strips of pre-painted Tamiya tape cut to size. (CM) The PoW (Petrol or Water) can rack mounted on the fenders. This was weathered with chalks mixed with Tamiya thinners. A silver pencil was run along the edges of the cans to represent a little wear and tear. (CM) Door fly mesh was used to represent the protection mesh used by Australian crews.

At this stage of assembly, one can put the upper and lower hulls together. The front of the tank requires new weld seams. Sean made them by soaking plastic rod in liquid cement to soften the rod and then placing these in position. This method is extremely effective, because these would naturally be rough in texture. Small cuts are necessary where the welds jump the front stowage bins. This cut is directly in line with the hinges. Moving to the rear of the hull, Sean added scratch-built mufflers.

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